Sunday, 14 January 2018

Welt Pockets

This technique is courtesy of Jenny Holtsbaum.


1. The Box

  • Interface behind where the pocket will go. Pink the edges first.
  • Pin a turning fabric (silk organza, lining fabric, interfacing) over the welt pocket area on the right side of the garment. It should be larger than the pocket by an inch either way. Baste 2 rows just above and below where the box will go.
  • Use a grid ruler to draw the welt box onto the turning fabric in pencil. Note that Gorgeous Things draws this on the back, on the interfacing and then sews the box from the back.
  • Starting on a long side, stitch the box using a 1.0 length stitch and taking 2 diagonal stitches across each corner. At the end, butt the stitches together, don't overlap.
  • Draw a line down the centre of the box with deep Vs to the corners.
  • Cut along the centre of the box through all layers and clipping diagonally right into the corners.
  • Remove basting and steam press to meld stitches. Finger press the turning fabric up from the right side, one edge at a time, and then again with the tip of the iron. 
  • Turn the turning fabric to the wrong side, one side at a time with only a tiny amount of the fashion fabric visible from the wrong side - too much gives the welt box a rounded look). Pull through and press each edge down on the wrong side, digging the point of the iron into each corner. Give it a hard edge press.

2. The Welts

  • Cut two strips of fashion fabric on straight grain or on the bias and interface. Make the welts longer than the pocket by 1" either end. Use interfacing of a contrasting colour so you can see previous stitching lines.
  • Fold the welts in half lengthwise with wrong sides together and press.
  • Butt the two welts together along the folded edge and slipstitch together. Press.
  • Draw welt box onto welts
  • Add SAs to all edges on WS of welt box. Remove paper. Position welts behind box and press in place.
  • Baste in and then slipstitch (matching thread, small stitches, not too tight) on all 4 sides with waxed thread. Check that the welt box is very square.
  • From the right side, lay back the fashion fabric only to reveal the original stitching line on the interfacing. Using the zipper foot, stitch exactly over the stitching line on all four sides of the box, over-running the corners and breaking the thread so that each line is sewn separately. 
  • Trim and grade all seam allowances and press hard using a press cloth.

3. Pouch

  • Cut two pieces of pouch fabric (eg lining), wider and deeper than the pocket.
  • On the wrong side, pin and stitch (zipper foot) the edge of the lower pouch piece to the lower edge of the welt along the original stitching line, keeping fashion fabric free. Press to meld.
  • The upper pocket pouch (the piece attached to the upper edge of the welt) must be made from fashion fabric, esp the area behind the pocket opening as it will show.
  • On the wrong side, pin and stitch the upper edge of the upper pocket pouch to the upper edge of the welt seams along the original stitching line, keeping the fashion fabric free. Press to meld.
  • Draw an outline of the pocket onto the top piece Stitch along this line (firstly with zipper foot to get past the welt seams, and then with normal foot for the rest) and then cut off excess fabric from pocket.)
  • Trim and grade all seam allowances.

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