Tuesday, 16 January 2018

Lined Patch Pocket

This technique is courtesy of Roberta Carr. It is especially useful for unlined jackets because all the top stitching is through one layer of fabric.


  1. Select the pocket shape and make a cardboard Template 1 of the pocket without seam allowances but including a 2" facing. eg for a 4 x 5" pocket this will be 4 x 7".
  2. Mark all the stitching lines and the fold line onto the wrong side of the fashion fabric pocket with chalk using the cardboard template.
  3. Make another Template 2 with facing and seam allowances all around. eg for a 4 x 5" pocket this will be 5 ¼" x 8 ¼". Cut out pocket in fashion fabric. Cut out lining using this Template 2, making it larger than the fashion fabric pocket.
  4. Cut out interfacing using Template 1 but extending past the facing fold line a little way. Thread baste the facing fold line over the interfacing.
  5. Stitch lining to fashion fabric, RS together at top edge only, leaving a 2" opening in the centre of the seam for turning - use a small stitch length (1.0) on either side of this opening. Press to meld stitches and then press seams towards lining and press facing to inside along fold line. Trim ¼" off the facing/lining seam (both fabrics).
  6. Press the pocket using a press cloth over a ham with steam to shape.
  7. Pin the lining to the fashion fabric and cut it to be exactly the same as the fashion fabric pocket.
  8. Trim ⅛" from the lining, from the fold line down, to prevent the lining from showing when the pocket is turned to the inside.
  9. Fold the pocket with right sides together (ie inside out along the fold line) matching cut edges exactly.
  10. Working from the lining side, pin the two together and then baste from fashion fabric side. Press to meld but don't trim seam allowances. Give the edge a hard press, pulling the lining back away from the stitching line and pressing using the tip of the iron.
  11. Remove the machine basting and open the pocket so that it lies flat - a ridge will appear on the foldline, this is good, don't flatten!
  12. Press the seam allowance using the cardboard template over the seam allowance of the fashion fabric to prevent show-through
  13. Hand stitch the opening between the lining and the facing, through which you turned the pocket.
  14. Baste around the edge of the pocket prior to topstitching with two lines through the fashion fabric only.
  15. Trim seam allowance close to the inner line of topstitching.
  16. Understitch the seam to the lining.
  17. Place pocket on garment with lining side down and pin very top corners in place and then the lining only, slipping the pins under the fashion fabric then flipping the fashion fabric out of the way to pin the whole lining in place.
  18. Stitch lining to the garment using small stitch length of 1.0 at the top pocket corners to reinforce the corners. Press. Trim lining seam allowance close to stitching line.
  19. Fold pocket down over the lining and pin in place. Hand slipstitch the pocket to the garment with a single thread.

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