Note that shoulder pads have a front and a back - a fat front and long narrow back. Use Armofleece by Birch or fusible Pellon or fusible quilting batting to construct.
- Shoulder pad pieces are marked from 1 (the smallest, at the top) to the last number (largest, the bottom).
- Trace shoulder pad pieces onto the fusible side of the pellon with a laundry marker that won't run under steam. Cut left and right pieces.
- The bottom (largest) piece and last number should have the left and right pieces swapped around so that the fusible side is up. Loosely layer the pieces together, checking that you have a left and right pad, in preparation for assembly.
- Assemble shoulder pads over the side seam of the ham, with centre lines matching and notching either end of the shoulder line. Start with the bottom layer, pinning points to the ham, then use gentle steam to fuse next layer to bottom layer, and so on. Leave pinned to ham to cool.
- Lie the shoulder pad over the armscye of the (pinned together) front and back pattern pieces and trim the pad to fit.
- Put shoulder pad into large rectangle of Whisper weft at 45o and pin to ham. Press to fuse. Cut around the shoulder pad leaving a little slack at the edges. Remove from ham and press gently from the underside.
- Mark the centre line on the top of the pad.
- Cover shoulder pad with large rectangle of lining by placing in the bias fold and shaping on ham with steam.
- Remove from ham, sew a running stitch around the raw edges and pink.
- When inserting angels' wings, loosely stitch only the centre line to the shoulder seam, leaving the pointed ends free.