Saturday, 9 December 2017

Construct a Welt Pocket

This technique is courtesy of Gorgeous Things.

Step 1: Use interfacing to mark your welt opening

  • Prepare a length of fusible interfacing 3" wide x the length of your welt plus 1".
  • Pink the edges of the interfacing so you don't get any press-through in your finished garment.
  • Using a pencil or fine-tipped permanent marker, draw a line lengthwise down the middle of the interfacing on the non-fusible side. Using a see-through gridded ruler, draw two lines parallel to this line, a scant ¼" away on either side. Draw two lines perpendicular to these lines at the end of the welt. The centre line will be your cutting line. The outside lines will be your stitching lines.
  • Fuse your marked interfacing to the wrong side of your fabric.


Step 2: Organza – the critical ingredient
  • Prepare a scrap of silk organza the same size as your interfacing. Pin it to the right side of the garment directly over the interfacing.

Step 3: Sewing the welt opening
  • Start in the middle of one of the long stitching lines. Start off with a stitch length of 1mm for several stitches, then lengthen to 2.5mm. As you approach the corners, drop back to 1mm.
  • Sew right up to the corner, then with the needle in the down position, pivot and sew along the short line to the next corner. Pivot again, increase the stitch length to 2.5mm and sew to the next corner. Repeat, then sew until you are almost at the beginning of the stitching.
  • Drop the stitch length to 1mm and continue to stitch until you reach, but don't pass, the beginning.
  • Note that this will sew the whole sandwich - interfacing, fabric and organza - together. Press on each side.
Step 4: Cutting the opening
  • Using sharp embroidery scissors with very precise points, cut along the cutting line through all thicknesses. Start at the middle and cut to about ½" from the edge.  Then cut all the way to, but not through, the corners forming a Vee. This is a crucial step, you do not want to form a 'pinch' at the corners because you haven't cut far enough.


Step 5: Turning the opening
  • Pull the organza through the opening to the wrong side of the fabric. This will encase the fabric in the organza. Pull the ends of the organza tightly and press.
  • Turn the fabric over and press from the right side. This will leave yo with a precise rectangular opening.

Step 6: Welt strips
  • Cut two strips of fabric and interfacing, each 1" wide x the length of you opening plus 2".
  • Fuse the interfacing to the fabric.
  • Fold the welt strips in half lengthwise and press. Centre one strip in the welt opening and baste in place.
  • Repeat this step for the second welt strip.

Step 7: Attaching welt strips
  • Open out one long side of the welt opening
  • From the wrong side, sew through all thicknesses (interfacing and garment fabric in the welt opening, organza and welt strip), as clos to the existing stitching as possible (use the needle in the left-most position if you can).
  • Do the same on the other side of the welt. This will attach the welt strips to the garment.

Step 8: Attaching pocket bag
  • Make the pocket bag by making a rectangle 10" x the width of the welt opening plus 2"
  • Attach the pocket bag by lining up the right side of the pocket bags against the wrong side of the garment. Aligh the top edge with the edge of the welt opening.
  • With the pocket bag against the feed dogs of your machine, stitch through all layers, close to the existing stitching. Turn the garment upside down and repeat on the bottom of the pocket.
  • To close the sides of the pocket, fold the garment out of the way and sew across the triangles of the welts, as close tot he edge of the welt opening as possible.
  • Repeat on the other side.

  • Sew the lips of the welt togehter on the outside to retain the shape until you press the garment.




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