Sunday, 24 December 2017

Faux Flatlock on the Overlocker

for either joining seams or making a decorative hem on knits.

This technique is courtesy of Fantastique Patterns and is a great embellishment


Step 1: Setting up the overlocker

  • Drop the cutting blade and remove the left needle. Loosen the right needle tension
almost the entire way and loosen the upper looper slightly. Tighten the lower looper almost

the entire way.

Step 2:

  • A. Prepare fabric for joining seams - extra flat. Remove all seam allowances
and then go to Method B below. The seams are butted up edge to edge with this stitch.
  • B. Prepare fabric for joining seams - extra strong. Overlap the seam allowances
and sew a flat seam. Trim the seam allowances back to almost nothing. Press open and then sew as follows. 

Step 3: Prepare fabric for hemming.

  • The vertical stitched line is to illustrate, right side (twin needle), wrong side
(underside of twin needle). Make the first fold for your hem, press and baste hem if necessary.

  • Make the 2nd fold here and press again where the overlocking will be.
The fold and edge of fabric must be perfectly aligned (basting helps).

Step 4: Sewing. 

  • Place fabric edges very close to the overlockers, presser foot, so that thread loops hang off the edge of fabric, left of the stitch width gauge . Right sides together for dashed line stitch and wrong sides together for flatlocked look.

2. Gently pull open.

3. Press stitches to set seam.

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