Sunday, 23 July 2017

Adding a split, lapped cowl collar

This technique is courtesy of Pam Erny. This is a tutorial about how to add a wide or narrow, short or long, or overlapped and asymmetrical collar to any knit top. Note that the collar could just as easily be made with no overlap and symmetrical. Seam allowances are 1/4" throughout.


Technique:


Prepare the pattern piece

  1. Length of the collar piece = length of the finished neck edge at 1/4" + 4" for overlap and turn of the cloth.
  2. Width of the collar piece = 8 - 12"

Construction:

  1. Interface the shoulder seams and the neck edges of the top
  2. Interface the collar piece with stretch interfacing
  3. Sew the shoulder seams.
  4. Fold the collar piece in half, lengthwise, with RS together and sew the short ends in 1/4" seam.
  5. Turn collar right side out. 
  6. Baste the raw edges together.
  7. Place a pin at CB on the top and on the collar.
  8. Overlap the collar edges by however much is needed to make the collar edge and the neck edge the same (should be about 2").
  9. Drop the collar into the 'hole' of the neckline with RS together
  10. Line up the CB pins of the top and the collar and then offset the collar by however much you want.
  11. Sew a 1/4" seam +/- overlock it.
  12. Press the seam towards the top and topstitch from the right side.


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