Thursday, 11 May 2017

Collar Stand a la Debbie Cook

This technique is a bit of a mish mash of techniques from various sewists' blogs including Debbie Cook.

Step 1. Make the collar.
  • Baste the raw edges together and press over a ham.

Step 2. Baste the collar stand.
  • With RS together, machine baste the neck edges of the collar stands together using a long stitch. Press this seam open, hard, over wood, then remove the stitches. This step keeps both collar stand seam allowances even and sets them up for the final lines of stitching

Step 3. Stitch the collar to the stand
  • Sandwich the collar in between the collar stands with the wrong side of the collar against right side of the outer collar stand, lining up the pattern markings and paying close attention to the markings on the top of the collar stand and where the collar ends. Stitch the collar to the collar stand, around the curved corner and right across your pressed-up seam allowances on the curved ends of the collar stand. Start stitching at the CB so you can stitch each curved end nicely.
  • Trim this seam closely but leave the seam allowances a little longer at the neck edge so there are no frayed seam allowances near the curved edge of the collar stand/shirt. Don't snip the corner point off the collar stands. Notch the curve of the seam allowance near the collar stand points.
  • Remove collar basting.
  • Turn collar to right side and press.

Step 4. Prepare the neckline
  • Stay stitch the neck edge of the shirt and clip it every inch or so to allow the seam line to lie straight.

Step 5. Sew the collar/collar stand to the neckline
  • Pin the outer collar stand/collar to the neck edge leaving the seam allowance free, and making sure it fits exactly with the collar stand point nice and tight in against the neck edge - if the neckline is a shade too long, take in the shoulder seams a bit.
  • Sew the outer collar stand/collar to the neck edge, leaving the first and last 5/8" or so of the seam unsewn, and stitching along the pressed line. If the seam allowances are big, trim them. You could also trim the seam allowance of the pressed under inner band now too.

Step 6. Topstitch
  • Flip the pressed edge of the inner collar stand down and hand baste in place. Top-stitch all around the collar stand, starting at the CB and using a 'jumper' at the collar stand points. (eg needle with thread threaded through the collar stand point that is used two turn the fabric under the machine).

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