Sunday, 12 February 2017

Sewing Bras: Foam Lace and Beyond

Lace placement

  • Remove the ¼" SA from the top of the cup and the strap ta, and straighten out the top line of the upper cup.

  • Mar ¼" in from the CF and 3/8" (width of the elastic) from the side.
  • Line the top edge of the upper cup pattern up with the low points (LOPOL) of the scallop on the lace and the CF SA mark with a low point.


  • Use stretch lining e.g. 15 Denier for stretch lace. Use a rigid lining under rigid lace e.g. sheer cup lining. Can't mix linings and laces. 
  • Cut lining pieces out and lie fabrics together with lining ending at LOPOL. Lay elastic along LOPOL of top edge and sew in place along both top and bottom of elastic, without stretching. Or, cut lining piece on the fold, using the top edge of the upper cup pattern as the fold line, and use this double to line the lace. This means the upper edge does not need finishing with elastic and is free floating. Or, could stitch and flip the lining to the fabric before cutting out the pattern. To do this, lie WS fabric with top edge along bottom edge of lining, lining lieing with ~¼" below LOPOL line and stitch in place. Flip lining down and iron flat. Cut out cup pieces.

  • Make straps from lace and line with suitable lining and attach to upper cup at outside edge. The scallop of the lace will lie along the inside of the strap and have a triangular appearance. These fabric straps are typically shorter with the strap elastic from the back coming up and over to the fabric strap.
  • Note that the bridge and the fabric straps must also be clean-finished as the top of the cups have been finished.

Stretch Lace on the band of a partial band bra

  • Redraft the lower band by marking the ½" SA  at either end of the bottom of the band and drawing a straight line across (even though low edge is curved) because lace can't curve, and cut off. This will be the LOPOL line. Cut lace out with scallop along the bottom edge
  • Line with power net, no finished edge required.
  • Lie elastic on WS of lace/lining, along LOPOL with elastic picot away from edge; zig zag with L=2 and W=2.5 along top and bottom of elastic, no stretch.

Rigid Lace on the band of a parital band bra

  • Only add lace to the side of the band as if the lace covered the entire band it wouldn't stretch enough. Way too complicated.

Lace on the bridge of a partial band bra

  • Cut the ¼" SA from the bottom of the bridge which is where the LOPOL will lie. Line lace by lieing the WS top of the lace fabric over the bottom of the lining and stitching along the SOPOL line the flipping down and ironing flat.

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