- Forms loose loops using a zig zag stitch over the centre bar to decorate an outlined design e.g. butterfly
- Set zig zag to shortest and widest stitch e.g. L = 0.5, W = 7.0
- Can form a fringe by straight stitching down one side and cutting along the other
- Choose a braid that is narrower than the width of the channel on the underside of the foot. For my generic foot this is 7mm.
- Snap foot on then feed e.g. narrow ribbon from top down into the front triangle, under the food and out the back.
- Stitch ribbon to fabric using whatever stitch you like, straight stitch or zig zag
- Can do the same with narrow elastic, pulling to gather and using wide zig zag stitch.
- Can use to couch eg wooly yarn using a clear thread in the needle.
- For narrower ribbon, adjust screw to smallen the window and ensure the ribbon feeds through evenly.
- There is a deep channel on the underside of the foot for the piping cord to feed through. Cover the cord with fabric with this foot and then shift the needle 1 point closer to the cord and stitch the piping to the fabric.
- For fabrics which have drag or resistance e.g. vinyl, leather. An alternative to a teflon foot, they literally have rollers under the foot! Increase the stitch length.
Darning Free Motion Foot
- Darning, quilting, adding lace, free motion eg stippling
- Drop the feed dogs and attach foot. Slow the speed control.
- Adjust stitch length to e.g. 4.5 with upper tension up to 7.0.
- Begin with finger at the back of the fabric to stop it until the feed teeth catch up and start to gather. Vary the gathering according to the stitch length and tension.
- If you put 2 lengths of fabric through at the same time, it will gather the bottom fabric onto the top fabric.
- Can gather either side (and even in the middle) to make an insert, or just in the middle of a bias strip as an embellishment.
- Feet with a few grooves are appropriate for heavier weight fabric e.g. 3 or 5 groove, and those with more, say 7 or 9 grooves, are best for very lightweight fabrics.
- Use a twin needle and set it in the centre position
- Mark the starting and ending point for your pin tucks, and stitch the first tuck. For parallel pin tucks, place each completed tuck in a groove to the right or left of centre, and tstitch the next tuck. This means that the first pin tuck must be really exact as it sets the bar for all the rest. You can miss a groove in the pintuck foot and space the pintucks further apart.
- Use cording for definition. Need a special bobbin cover.
- You need to match the size of the needle to the size of the pintuck foot. They come in sizes 1.6 - 6.0 which is the distance in mm between the points. The needle has to match the foot, so the more grooves you have the smaller the needle distance needed.
- (being the distance between the needle points in mm)
1.6 (use with 9 groove foot)
2.0 (use with 7 groove foot)
2.5, or 3.0 (use with 5 groove foot)
4.0 (use with 3 groove foot).
- Adjust the top tension - set it to higher to get 'lift' to the pintucks but not too high that you get 'tunneling' with bunching either side of the pintuck.
- 3 or 5 hole foot that allows decorative thread, yarn or elastic to be applied. Don't have to use all holes, could just use 1 or 2. e.g.. use a decorative yarn in the middle and 2 elastic threads either side to gather eg the top of a pocket.
- Insert cords (through ports and then down through hole in foot) and sew with 3-step zig zag
Rolled Hem Foot (or Narrow Hemmer)
- The hem allowance for a 6mm rolled hem will be 12mm. The 6mm hemmer is for medium weight fabrics.
- The edge needs to be ABSOLUTELY SMOOTH - no jags or stray threads.
- Finger press 12mm of fabric over, and then in half to make a 6mm double fold, for about an inch and pin in place. Place under the presser foot but don't put the fold into the scroll yet. Line the needle up with the fold of the fabric, take a few stitches to anchor the thread and stop with the needle down. Raise the presser foot and tug the fold of the fabric into the scroll, pulling gently on the fabric in front of the presser foot. Lower the presser foot and continue sewing. Note that fusing a 1 - 2" strip of interfacing, ⅛" wide, can help to start the process on sheer fabrics.
- Start sewing slowly, pushing the fabric to the right with your left hand and the fold to the left with your right hand, and keeping the fabric slightly raised above the scroll. The raw edge of the fabric on top should feed in via the left hand side of the foot, along the groove, and the right side fold of the fabric should line up with the outside of the foot.
- Adjust the needle position to make sure the stitching line is close to the fold. This is usually in the middle.
- There are ways to go around corners well, see the Threads Magazine article or Sew4Home article on this.
- To do a rolled hem on a curve, run a straight stitch around the edge first. When sewing, exaggerate the feeding through of the fabric (to the right with the left hand, etc). Could use this on e.g. a neckline.
- Sew a shell edge using the rolled hem foot by selecting an overlocker stitch or blind hem stitch and lengthening the stitch length (the length of the scallop) and width (the depth of the scallop)
- Coated to glide over leather, vinyl, laminate, suede, rubberised fabric
- Consider using an upholstery thread
- comes with or without guide, and can add quilting bar (which slides into top of foot). Can add quilting bar to walking foot for e.g. quilting