An inset pockets starts in a seam, any seam but typically a side seam. Construct the pocket before sewing the side seam. Note that each pocket will have two pocket pieces, one the pocket lining and one the facing.
- Cut two pocket pieces the shape you want with one straighter edge the shape of the side seam, adding 5/8" seam allowances all around. One will be the pocket lining and one the facing.
- With WS together, lay one pocket piece lined up with the side seam of the garment body and pin in place. This is the pocket lining.
- Draw the opening shape for the pocket, whatever you want it to be, onto the right side of the garment. Pin bias binding along the drawn opening on the RS then stitch in place at whatever width you want the finished binding to be. Cut along the drawn opening line, through both the garment and the pocket lining. Clip the seam allowance and turn the binding to the inside, then stitch in the ditch from the RS. (Note: if you don't want the bias binding trim, pin the pocket lining to the garment, RS together, draw on the opening shape, stitch ¼" away, flip to the wrong side and edge stitch).
- Lay the pocket facing on the wrong side of the garment, matching edges with the pocket lining and completing the side seam, and sew around the edge in a ¼" seam. Overlock or pink the edges.
- Sew the side seam.