Sunday, 13 November 2016

Add a Floating Welt Pocket

This technique is courtesy of Sandra Betzina. This pocket can be add after the garment has been constructed. The pocket is attached to the garment at the upper edges only, the pocket hanging free.


  1. Cut 2 pocket pieces 8 x 10" and one to form the welt piece, 8 x 11". Interface the top 3" of the welt piece as this is where the window box will go.
  2. Draw the window box onto the interfacing - draw a horizontal line 2" down from the top and one parallel to that a further ½" down. Make a 5" window box in the centre by adding short ends.
  3. With RS together, pin the outside fabric to the welt piece, and sew along the box, starting on a long edge with a smaller stitch length (2.2) and hand walking with 1 stictch diagonally at the corners (2 stitches in heavy fabric).
  4. Cut into the centre of the window box, through both layers, with a ½" triangle into the corners. Fray Check the corners. Turn the welt piece through to the back and press with a clapper.
  5. On the WS, lift up the lower edge of the welt piece and lie a piece of Steam a Seam under the welt SA. Press in place. Fold the top of the welt piece up into a ½" horizontal pleat that neatly fills the window box and press in place. The lower edges of the outside piece and welt piece should now be the same length.
  6. From the RS, lift the outside fabric up from the short edge of the window box and stitch along the previous short edge stitching line, sewing the horizontal pleat in place. Do both ends.
  7. Pin the other pocket piece to the eel/outside piece, RS together. Stitch all 4 sides together, starting on a long edge. Trim the corners, press the SA open, grade and trim seams then turn through the opening and press with a clapper.
  8. Pin the completed pocket to the garment and edge stitch the upper part of the pocket in place, starting at the window box, up along the top and down to the other side of the window box - the pocket hangs free.

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