Sunday, 14 August 2016

Narrowing Sleeves

I often find that larger size patterns have a dropped armhole and baggy sleeves, particularly in knits. I came across this method for narrowing sleeve width and will keep it in mind for future alterations.

Technique:

1.   Narrow the sleeve

  • Measure the bicep length from the pattern and compare with your own. Divide the amount you need to shorten the length by 2.
  • Draw a line on the pattern from the Centre dot at the top of the sleeve to the bottom, on grain.
  • Draw a line on the pattern across the bicep.
  • Trace the sleeve onto a piece of paper.
  • Cut along both lines leaving a hinge at centre top and at each side.
  • Narrow the bicep by the required amount, overlapping the plates of the pattern and raising the sleeve cap height but keeping the lower edges on grain.
  • Redraw the sleeve, adding paper in-fills where needed (eg the sleeve cap).

2.   Redraw the bodice armscye

  • Adjust the front and back bodice by raising the armhole the same amount as that decreased at the bicep. e.g.. if you decrease the bicep width by 2", add 1" to the front and back armscye.

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