Friday, 8 July 2016

Single layer Flap Pocket

This technique is courtesy of Sandra Betzina. It is for use on heavy fabrics that won't fray such as melton, boiled wool, leather, suede, etc. It is not interfaced or lined. The flap is formed from the garment front.


  • Cut a cardboard template rectangle for the flap eg. 6" x 2½" then use the pocket template guide to form two corners.
  • On garment front, RS, draw a chalk placement line = the top of the flap.
  • Place the cardboard flap on the placement line and chalk around it.
  • Stitch 3 sides (not top placement line) on top of placement line using a smaller stitch (except on leather, a smaller stitch might perforate the line).
  • Stitch again, ¼" outside the first stitching line.
  • Cut between the stitching lines with scissors.
  • Cut an 8 x 8" rectangle of fabric to make the pocket bag and add ¼" Steam a Seam to all edges.
  • Remove paper and fust to the wrong side of the garment, about ½" larger all around flap.
  • On RS, chalk lines down either side ½" from flap edges and topstitch on the initial placement line and the newly drawn lines to secure the pocket bag.

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