Friday, 8 July 2016

Single layer Flap Pocket

This technique is courtesy of Sandra Betzina. It is for use on heavy, non-fray fabrics such as melton, boiled wool, leather, suede, etc. It is not interfaced or lined.


  • Cut a cardboard flap template rectangle 6" x 2½" then use the pocket template guide to form two corners.
  • On garment front, RS, draw a chalk placement line.
  • Place the cardboard flap on the placement line and chalk around it.
  • Stitch 3 sides (not top placement line) on top of placement line using a smaller stitch (except on leather, a smaller stitch might perforate the line).
  • Stitch again, ¼" outside the first stitching line.
  • Cut between the stitching lines with scissors.
  • Cut an 8 x 8" rectangle of fabric to make the pocket bag and add ¼" Steam a Seam to all edges.
  • Remove paper and fust to the wrong side of the garment, about ½" larger all around flap.
  • On RS, chalk lines down either side ½" from flap edges and topstitch on the initial placement line and the newly drawn lines to secure the pocket bag.

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