Sunday, 10 July 2016

Sew a Partial Placket

This technique is courtesy of Ashley. The partial placket is constructed after the neckline has been completely finished. ½" seams are used throughout.

1. Preparation:

  • Decide on the desired length of the finished placket opening. e.g. 6".
  • Cut 2 fabric strips, one longer than the other: Strip A = 6" + ½" + 1 ½"   Strip B = 6" + ½" + ½"
  • The fabric strips will be 3 x wider than the finished width. eg. for a 1" placket, cut strips 3" wide.
  • On WS of garment front, draw a CF line that is 5 ½" long and cut along it.

2. Construction

  • On WS garment, pin Strip A face down along the RHS of the opening with the top lying ½" above the neckline and Strip B face down along the LHS of the opening with the top lying ½" above the neckline. The two strips should line up at the top and be staggered at the bottom.
  • Sew each strip in place with a seam allowance of ½" (= half the finished width of the placket). Sew the strips the length of the finished placket (6") not the cut opening (5 ½")
  • On RS garment front, cut diagonally out from the cut opening to the ends of the stitching line. Cut through the garment front fabric only, not the plackets.
  • On WS, fold  B to the R along the seam line and press.
  • On RS, pull Strip B through the opening to the right side and fold the raw edge under ½".
  • Flip Strip B over to the right and fold the RHS of the fabric back on itself, exactly in half, with RS together and keeping the top and bottom edges even.
  • On WS, stitch across top at ½" through all layers so that it is even with finished neckline. Clip corners, turn RS out and press.
  • On RS, lift the bottom of Strip B up and fold the triangle fabric of the garment front down, then lie Strip B over it.
  • Sew all the way down the RHS and across the bottom of Strip B at ½" from the bottom, catching the triangle and keeping Strip A out of the way. This stitching line should be 6" long.
  • Do the same with Strip A on the LHS.

3. Finishing

  • To finish Strip A, fold ½" under at bottom edge so that it covers Strip B completely.
  • Sew a large cross in a box at the bottom inch of Strip A.
  • Attach snaps, buttons, whatever.

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