Wednesday, 6 July 2016

Sew a Mandarin Collar.

This technique is courtesy of Sandra Betzina. A Mandarin collar is essentially the same as sewing a collarstand. Construct the shirt to the point where the shoulder seams are sewn and the front placket finished.

Technique:

  • Interface both collar bands with a very lightweight, fusible interfacing.
  • Mark the CB on both the garment neck edge and collar band 1. (Collar band 1 is the outer band).
  • Mark 5/8" in from the edge of the non-curve edge of collar band 1.
  • With RS together, match the CB of collar band 1 and neck edge, and 5/8" mark with edge of placket, easing in the curves. Could also stay stitch the neck edge of the garment and clip to the stitching to get it to ease in more easily.
  • Match any other pattern markings eg. shoulder seam.
  • Sew with the button band down and press seam allowances towards the band over a ham.
  • Stitch again at ¼" through collar band 1 and all seam allowances.
  • Trim close to stitching and press.
  • Place collar band 2 over collar band 1, RS together.
  • Fold up seam allowance of collar band 2, just in the seam area, and not quite as much as collar band 1, just 1/16" longer as it is longer to cover the seam line.
  • On collar band 2, use the pocket template to draw the stitching line (eg. 3cm) down to the bottom edge, 1 stitch out from the placket line.
  • Stitch, decreasing the stitch length and keeping the lower edge pressed up.
  • Trim the seam allowances to ⅛".
  • Notch the curve often.
  • Turn out and finger press to roll out the seam. Press. Could hand baste in place if the fabric is difficult prior to pressing.
  • Over a ham, press the lower edge up making sure it covers the seam.
  • Fuse short pieces of ¼" Steam a Seam to the WS of the garment neck edge to hold collar band 2 seam hem in place.
  • Topstitch around collar bands on the outside at ¼" starting in the middle of a long edge.

No comments:

Post a Comment