Saturday, 2 July 2016

Patch Pockets

This technique is courtesy of Sandra Betzina. Cut patch pockets for shirts or jackets (larger on coats) that are rectangles, 4 ½" x 6 ½" (includes a 1" facing). Don't interface the facing unless the fabric is a knit.


  • Overlock the edge of the facing, not cutting any fabric off, and press the facing towards the RS of the pocket.
  • Cut tracer paper (or Vilene or silk organza) very slightly smaller than the size of the pocket minus the facing depth (eg above, 4½" x 4½") and pin to the RS of the pocket.
  • Mark the stitching line on all 3 edges of the tracer paper, using a pocket template (eg 3cm) to draw the curve at the corners.
  • Stitch the tracer paper to the pocket starting at the top edge of the turned-under facing, decreasing the stitch length at the curves and moving the fabric with the presser foot down.
  • Cut all seam allowances down to ¼", clipping out notches at ¼" intervals on the curves and notching the very top corner of the facings.
  • Take an extra 1/16" off the facing seam allowance.
  • Turn the facing to the inside and the tracer paper to the inside, and press from the RS
  • Fuse ¼" Steam a Seam under the facing and topstitch in place.
  • Fuse ¼" Steam a Seam to the WS of the pocket edges and position on the garment.
  • Use the blind hem foot to get really close edge stitching.
  • Toptstitch.

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