Lined Patch Pockets

This technique is courtesy of Sandra Betzina.

Technique:

• Cut a rectangle for the pocket, the pocket dimensions + 2" for the facing + 5/8". eg for a 4 x 5" pocket you would cut (4 + 1 ¼ ") x (5 + 2 + 1 ¼ ")  = 5 ¼ " x 8 ¼ "
• Cut a rectangle for the lining,  the pocket dimensions - 2" for the facing + 5/8". eg for a 4 x 5" pocket you would cut (4 + 1 ¼") x (5 + 1 ¼") = 5 ¼ x 6 ¼".
• Sew the facing to the lining at top only, RS together, leaving an opening of about 4" in the middle to turn the pocket. Finish this seam.
• Mark the stitching line on the lining/facing, using the pocket template (eg 3cm) to mark the curves.
• Stitch from the very top corner of the pocket all around the 3 edges, decreasing the stitch length to 1.5 at curves and releasing fabric with the needle down every few cm.
• Press the seam open (or, for very stubborn fabric, hand baste open and then press) and then trim seam allowances to ¼", grading facing seam allowance to ⅛".
• Turn the pocket and press from the RS. The lining will turn the facing down and into place.
• Hand stitch the opening closed.
• Fuse Steam a Seam to the WS of the pocket edges and position on garment.
• Edge stitch and topstitch the pocket in place.