Sunday, 3 July 2016

Lined Patch Pockets

This technique is courtesy of Sandra Betzina.

Technique:

  • Cut a rectangle for the pocket, the pocket dimensions + 2" for the facing + 5/8". eg for a 4 x 5" pocket you would cut (4 + 1 ¼ ") x (5 + 2 + 1 ¼ ")  = 5 ¼ " x 8 ¼ "
  • Cut a rectangle for the lining,  the pocket dimensions - 2" for the facing + 5/8". eg for a 4 x 5" pocket you would cut (4 + 1 ¼") x (5 + 1 ¼") = 5 ¼ x 6 ¼".
  • Sew the facing to the lining at top only, RS together, leaving an opening of about 4" in the middle to turn the pocket. Finish this seam.
  • Mark the stitching line on the lining/facing, using the pocket template (eg 3cm) to mark the curves.
  • Stitch from the very top corner of the pocket all around the 3 edges, decreasing the stitch length to 1.5 at curves and releasing fabric with the needle down every few cm.
  • Press the seam open (or, for very stubborn fabric, hand baste open and then press) and then trim seam allowances to ¼", grading facing seam allowance to ⅛".
  • Turn the pocket and press from the RS. The lining will turn the facing down and into place.
  • Hand stitch the opening closed.
  • Fuse Steam a Seam to the WS of the pocket edges and position on garment.
  • Edge stitch and topstitch the pocket in place.

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