Friday, 1 July 2016

Single Layer Side Seam Pocket

This technique is courtesy of Sandra Betzina. It adds a side seam pocket with only 1 layer and can be added to any seam - side seam, princess seam or add a seam line so you can add a pocket! If you want, you can use a Hong Kong finish on the pocket raw edge first (with RS together sew a bias strip at ¼" to the extended edge of the pocket, press it away and then wrap and stitch in the ditch, trimming the excess) or overlock or pink it.


  1. Draft a pocket piece with a nice rounded shape.
  2. Mark the pocket opening (~6") on the front piece of the garment, top and bottom. Clip to ½" at each marking. Fuse ¼" Steam a Seam to the opening edge and then fold under twice, using the paper as a template. Remove the paper and topstitch in place.
  3. Fuse short strips of Steam a Seam to the edges of the pocket and position in place.
  4. From the WS, stitch the pocket to the garment (in the ditch, if a Hong Kong finish), using 2 lines of stitching if desired.
  5. Sew the back of the garment to the front, RS together, catching the pocket seam but missing the pocket opening.
  6. If desired, topstitch down either side of the pocket opening.
  7. Add bar tacks (small, narrow zig zag) to the opening ends on the front of the garment, or add rivets.

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