Tuesday, 28 June 2016

Invisible Stitching Patch Pockets

This technique is courtesy of Sandra Betzina. This pocket is lined. Basically the pocket is constructed along with the lining intact and then the lining is machine stitched to the garment. The pocket is then hand-stitched to the garment. There is no top stitching which is good for patterned fabrics eg plaids.


  1. The pocket has a 1½" facing at the back which attaches to the lining, which is flush with the bottom of the pocket. Therefore, for a 4 x 5" pocket the fashion fabric dimensions are:  (4 + 1 ¼") x (5 + 1 ¼ + 1/ ½") = 5 ¼ x 7 3/4"+ 1½". The lining dimensions are: (4 + 1 ¼") x (5 + 1 ¼) = 5 ¼ x 6 ¼".
  2. Sew the lining to the pocket at the top edge only and press the seam towards the lining. Press the facing line.
  3. Cut tracer pattern to the RS of the pocket and pin in place.
  4. Use the pocket template and ruler to mark the seam line at 5/8" on all 3 sides.
  5. Sew the tracer pattern to the pocket along the seam line, decreasing stitch length at curves and lifting the presser foot every few cm's to release the fabric.
  6. Trim both the garment and the tracer pattern to ⅛", starting 1" below top of tracer pattern. On the curves, fold and clip divots.
  7. Turn the tracer pattern to the inside, finger-pressing the curves. Press with a silk organza cloth and hit with a clapper.
  8. Place the pocket/lining on the garment and lift the pocket up out of the way. Chalk around the outside of the lining and pin it in place.
  9. Stitch the lining in place just inside the chalked line, starting at the top of the facing (and doing a fancy little triangle to give it strength. This stitching line won't show).
  10. Flip the pocket down and hand stitch in place.

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