Saturday, 28 May 2016

Zippered Welt Pocket

This technique is courtesy of Sandra Betzina.

  1. Prepare the zipper box.

  • Baste the line where the zipper will go.
  • Interface behind this line with a weft interfacing.
  • Cut a silk organza rectangle about 2" wide and the length of the zipper +2" and pin it over the basting on the RS.
  • Sew with a short stitch (1.5) about ¼" either side of the basting, making a ½" box around it, starting mid way along one of the long sides. At the corners, hand walk the stitch diagonally across the corners for 2 stitches with 7 stitches along the short edge.
  • Cut along the basting line, forming Vs a the short ends and turn through to the other side.
  • Remove basting.
  • Press the silk organza away from the seam from both sides so no silk organza shows.
  • Press Steam a Seam on the WS of the long edges.
  • Shorten the zipper by pulling the zipper pull down then bar tacking at the end and chopping off the excess. This method keeps the zipper stop intact which looks good on the finished pocket.
  • Place the zipper under the box, making sure the zipper stop is exposed and press to hold.
  • Sew along the initial stitching line, down each long side on the WS so the the SA is sewn to the zipper tape. Sew the short side at the zipper stop end.

2. Add the pocket bag

  • Cut a 10" x 12" pocket bag.
  • Press Steam a Seam on long edges of WS and press the edges in.
  • Pin pocket bag on WS, behind zipper box and stitch in place from WS.

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