Saturday, 14 May 2011

Draft a pleated pocket

I'd like this tutorial to include a whiz-bang photo collage thingy that jumps out at you when you roll your cursor over it but, well, for the moment these photos will have to do.  I have searched the internet looking for ways to format the photos but so far haven't had any success.  If anyone has any tips they'd be much appreciated!  This is the pleated pocket I drafted for my 'retro-style' jacket (Vogue 8472) and I thought I'd share the process with you.
You can see the close up of it here.  Notice that as well as binding the top of the pocket with self BB I also added a self-covered button.
Start with a template of the finished pocket. Measure the top width so you know what it should be after pleating the pocket fabric.
Draw vertical lines where you want the pleats to go. Keep in mind that thicker fabric will require more space to pleat so limit the number to just a few.
Cut through the lines, almost to the bottom of the template, and spread the top of the pocket the desired amount.
Redraw the template, including the slash-and-spread area, then add seam allowances. This is the pattern piece you will use to cut out your fabric. If you like you can draw the pleat lines onto this piece.
When I made my pocket I trimmed the top edge with bias binding (so I actually cut the top seam allowance off) and added a self-fabric button.

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