Monday, 14 January 2019

Sewing Inspo

The following images inspire me to be bolder in my sewing - more creative, push the boundaries.

Chanin-style applique.
I can see this on a t-shirt as a patch or on a pocket. Or on a beanie.

 Bjork in Yo Yo's.
I couldn't find the designer's name for this but the creative thinking behind it is amazing.
I also love the deep, rich jewel colours that were used for the yo yo's.

 Amazing design and Bjork carries it off perfectly.

 Gayle Ortiz - Butterick 5891.
The things I like about this are the shoulder princess line, the chunky buttons,
the long-line tunic and the oversize pockets. The collar is messy but interesting.

 Gayle Ortiz - own design. Interesting hem detail.

 Gayle Ortiz - own design.
What I like about this design is the fabulous fabric, that it's a vest so long-line,
the ragged hemline and the hanging pockets.

 Gayle Ortiz - own design. Interesting layering.

 Gayle Ortiz - own design.
This jumper has great pairing of colour and tone and piecing,
and I love the touch of applique.

 Gayle Ortiz - own design.
Note the rouleaux loops and buttons overlying an exposed zipper.

 Gayle Ortis - own design.
The main things I like about this design are the long-lines and the oversized bellows pocket.

 Gayle Ortiz - own design.
Close up of asymmetrical design.

 Gayle Ortiz - own design.
So sculptural with those oversize pockets, they almost form a peplum.

 Gayle Ortiz - own design.
I love the piecing/sewing/appliquing on this top.

 Gayle Ortiz - close up.
Free motion stitching over dyed circles.

 Gayle Ortiz - close up of pocket.

 Gayle Ortiz - own design.
I love the long-lines, ragged hem and oversize pockets.

 Gayle Ortiz - own design.
Love the long-lines, ragged hem and low V-neck with CF opening.
Even better if it had some oversize pockets.

 Gayle Ortiz - Butterick 5891.
I like the slightly swing silhouette of this jacket
and also the bound buttonholes on applique squares.

 Not sure where I came across this image, I like the applique.

 Gayle Ortiz - Lyn Mizono jacket.
I love this fabric and it pairs perfectly with the style.
I like the asymmetrical button front and the ragged hem.

Marcy Tilton Vogue 8709.
I like the swing silhouette, the tapered placket and the pockets.
Unfortunately OOP.

Interesting applique and stitching ideas.

 Overlapping appliques.

 Combining ideas.

 Artful stitching.

Sunday, 13 January 2019

Working with Bias Binding

This technique is by Marcy Tilton. 'This technique is straight from the workrooms of French couture houses, and works for small pieces of bias and longer/larger pieces.'

Cut wider

Bias binding stretches out to become longer and narrower which can give an uneven look to a bound edge. Cut the bias binding an inch wider than you need and then do the following.

Press to take the stretch out

Position the bias cut strip on an ironing board
Press, stretching gently

Re-cut to desired width

Take the pressed strip back to the cutting table

Using a clear ruler and rotary cutter, trim it to an even width
Keep the length longer than needed to make it easier to handle - you can trim after sewing

Friday, 11 January 2019

Side Seam Pocket

This tutorial and pictures are by Gayle Ortiz. It is her technique for making a side pocket.


  • First, mark the position of where the pocket is to be on the front side seams. 
  • Using a rounded template, cut out the pocket opening, allowing for seam allowance both top and bottom.  The pocket bag itself will be longer than the opening by about 5/8" top and bottom.

  • Use a knit for the binding so that there is no need to cut bias strips, but if using a woven you will need about 10-12" of 2" bias cut fabric.  Pin the bias strips to the fronts, right sides facing.

  • Sew the binding on using a 1/2" seam allowance then turn the strip to the back, over the seam allowance (don't trim!) and top stitch it.  Cut away any excess on the back and edges.

  • Draft the pocket bag to be 5/8" longer than the pocket opening with the shape of the side seam and however big you want it. Overlock the edges of the pocket bag then sew it onto the garment, right side of pocket bag to wrong side of garment.

  • Sew the side seam, catching in the side edges of the pocket.

Friday, 4 January 2019

Make a CB Tab

This simple but effective technique for constructing a decorative CB tab is courtesy of Marcie Tilton (her hoodie pattern, Vogue 9244).


  1. Cut a fabric rectangle 7 x 4" (finished measurements of tab = 5 3/4" x 1 3/4" ) 
  2. Fold fabric in half, lengthwise, with right sides together and sew the long edge (5/8" seam)  in two passes, leaving about 2" unsewn in the middle to turn the tab
  3. Bring the seam into middle and press the seam open
  4. Stitch across the ends in a 5/8" seam
  5. Turn tab right side out, poking out the corners and making sure the seam allowances lie flat within the tab. Press. Slipstitch the opening edges together
  6. Sew 5/8" buttons at either end of the tab to secure the tab to the garment

Tuesday, 2 October 2018

Draft a Cowl Neckline

Maria from The Pattern Drafter posted this picture on how to draft a cowl neckline - adding length at CF and at the neckline, front and back.

No automatic alt text available.

Saturday, 11 August 2018

Tutorials on Sewing a Raincoat

At some stage, in the not too distant future, I will attempt to sew a waterproof jacket. And when I do I'll be sure to check out these links below which contain invaluable information

Tuesday, 24 April 2018

FBA - Y shaped

This technique is courtesy of The Curvy Sewing Collective. It aims to deal with the huge dart that can result from a standard FBA by spreading the excess into the chest.


The Y-Dart FBA really only has one additional step beyond a traditional FBA.
  1. Let’s start by drawing in the lines that we’d normally draw for an FBA on a darted bodice:
  2. For the Y-Dart FBA, however, we’re going to add one more line. This line will run from the middle of the shoulder seam to the bust apex:
  3. Perform the following cuts to your pattern piece: From the bottom of the pattern piece to the bust apex, pivot slightly and continue on the leg that goes to the armscye, leaving a pivot point. 

  1. Cut from the edge of the bust dart nearly all of the way to the bust apex. Stop just short of where the previous cut passed through.
    1. Cut from the bust apex up the line towards the shoulder, leaving a pivot point. y resemble a “Y”, which is how this alteration gets its name:
    2. Cut all of the way through the horizontal lengthen line at the lower right.
  2. Just below the bust apex, spread the pattern pieces the amount necessary for your FBA.
  3. Fill in the open areas with pattern tissue.
  4. True up the lower-right corner piece with the rest of the bodice.
Let’s look at the difference between a 3″ traditional FBA and the 3″ Y-dart FBA that we just completed. Note how much more reasonable the side bust dart appears and how more gently curved the armscye is on the Y-dart pieces: