Tuesday, 12 January 2016

Double Welt Pockets by Sandra Betzina

The following information is my notes from Sandra Betzina's demonstration with Ron collins, the most common-sense method for creating a welt pocket that I came across when researching the topic.

  1. Pocket piece = lining fabric. Pocket piece size = from side seam, 3/4 or so along the waist and down twice as far as you want the finished pocket to be (or cut on fold at bottom). At one end, on the back of the pocket piece, overlay a piece of fashion fabric about 4” deep and the width of the bottom of the pocket piece, over the lower end of the pocket piece and zig zag into place along the long edge. This will turn through the 'window' and face the pocket opening.
  2. Lay pocket piece over garment with back of pocket piece/overlay facing the RS of the garment, matching waist and side seams. Draw the window onto the RS of the pocket piece using chalk and interface behind the window on the garment. Use a grid ruler for accuracy. The window is usually about 6" x 1" long.
  3. Sew along marked line, using small stitches before and after each corner. Cut midway between the stitching lines, forming a V before each corner and clipping right into each corner, making a nice, fat pie at each end. If fabric is ravelly, dot a spot of Fray Check at each corner.
  4. Turn fabric through. From RS, finger-press seams in place, slightly favouring the RS and then iron in place. 
  5. On long edges of box, on WS, press Steam a Seam. Put the 2 interfaced welts - 8 x 4” - RS together and baste down the middle. Turn so that each welt is folded back on itself, with the basting in the middle, and press hard. Position the welts under the box, centred, and press lightly under a press cloth. Lift edge of one side of window and position a fabric loop or ribbon loop under the edge then press hard, with a cloth, from both sides. The Steam a Seam keeps the welts and the loop in place.
  6. Can topstitch around the edge of the window OR can sew invisibly - to do this, lay garment RS up and then fold fashion fabric ONLY back to reveal the stitching line on the interfacing. Sew along the stitchin line, pivoting at the corners and keeping other layers OUT OF THE WAY! This will sew the button loop at the same time. Press.
  7. Remove basting line to open up the welts.
  8. Fold the pocket pouch up to the top, matching side and waist seams. Sew the free inside edges together and finish. Machine-baste along the waist edge. Press over a ham to get the body curve, not caring one whit if the side seams are out of whack. Machine baste the side seam.
  9. Sew button on seam for better anchoring.




Wednesday, 30 December 2015

Design Idea

Having spent the last few hours trawling through Spotty Dog Social Club, the blog, I wanted to bookmark this idea for casual tops, to add an interesting detail. Basically it's a square of sheer something and some gathered fabric sewn into the band of the top. Thankyou, Spotty Dog, for a lovely afternoon!

The lower photo shows an interesting use of a label, courtesy of Five and Counting.




Wednesday, 20 May 2015

Turning Fabric Tubes

These are the instructions from Sham's (Communing with Fabric) video post on how to turn a fabric tube using a bobby pin. I'm posting it here in the hope that next time I need to do this I'll know where to look!

Instructions

  1. Sew the fabric tube, right sides together. Make it at least an inch longer than it needs to be.
  2. Fold the top ½" to the inside of the tube and cut diagonally across one corner forming a cut-out diamond notch
  3. Insert the shorter leg of the bobby pin into the top of the tube (the core) and the longer leg of the bobby pin in through the cut-out notch. Start turning.
  4. Once the tube is fully turned, chop off the dodgy end with the notch.

Sunday, 10 May 2015

Make a Slouchy Pocket


First of all, this pocket was inspired by the fabulous work of Gayle Ortiz and drafted by me with much trial and error. It is designed to be attached to the outside of a top, vest, jacket, etc. and the finished pocket measures approximately 51/2" x 71/2". Note that the wrong side of the fabric forms the front gathered pocket.

Draw a paper template
  1. Draw a rectangle 6 x 16".
  2. At 9" down, draw a diagonal line ending 2" out from the lower corner of the rectangle, ending 1" above the lower line. Mirror the angle for the last 1" and do the same on the other side.
  3. Draw horizontal lines at 1½" and 3" from the top.




Construct the pocket
  1. Cut the fabric out and make snips at all the horizontal lines which are either fold lines or placement lines.
  2. Overlock each short edge, without trimming
  3. Interface the rectangle, not quite to the edges.
  4. With RS together, turn the top of the rectangle down 1½" and sew this short seam in ¼" seam. Turn and press.
  5. With RS together, turn edge of wedge down 1" and pin sides. Don't sew and turn.
  6. With WS together, pin one edge of wedge to one side of rectangle, lining the folded edge of the wedge along the overlocked edge of rectangle. Pin other side (there will be a lot of bagginess).
  7. Sew each side with a ¼" seam.
  8. Sew 2 lines of basting at ½" from the folded edge of the wedge.
  9. Gather the folded edge, secure ends and distribute fullness evenly.
  10. Sew 3 buttons onto the top flap.
  11. Edgestitch the pocket to the top, vest, jacket, and voila!






Monday, 23 February 2015

Make a 1950's Bow

Make a pattern

  1. Cut 2 pieces of fabric on the straight grain, making the main piece twice the length and twice the width of the finished bow, plus ¼" SA all around on both pieces. The bow will be about half the length of the main piece.
  2. Interface if the fabric is very drapey.

Sew the main piece

  1. With RS together, sew a ¼" seam on the long edge. Press the seam open over dowel and turn. Position the seam line in the middle and press.
  2. Make horizontal pleats on the CF and sew them down using a wide zig zag, about as wide as the centrepiece
  3. Pleat the raw ends of the main piece and tack in place.
  4. Fold the ends under so that they meet at CB. Sew through all layers using a wide zig zag (won't show -  will be covered by the centrepiece).

Sew the centrepiece

  1. With RS together, sew a ¼" seam on the long edge. Press the seam open over a wooden chopstick and turn. Position the seam line in the middle and press.
  2. Finish the raw edges and press.
  3. Topstitch, if desired.

Assemble the bow

  1. Wrap the centrepiece around the main piece, overlapping raw edges at CB and hand stitch in place.
  2. Using teeny weeny stitches, stitch the folded edges of the centrepiece to the main piece - this puffs it up.
  3. 1950s Bow

Saturday, 13 December 2014

Inserting an Invisible Zipper

This is the most accurate way to insert an invisible zipper - the result is always perfect.

First of all, don't sew any part of the seam where the zipper will go - leave the whole seam unsewn.

Also, choose a zipper that is about 5cm longer than the zipper opening. This allows the zipper end to be pulled out of the way when completing the garment seam.

Steps:

  1. Interface both sides of the seam with long strips of iron-on interfacing.
  2. Lightly press under 1.5cm seam allowances in the zipper area. This fold line provides a guide for the zipper placement.
  3. Lay the garment fabric pieces wrong side up with the pressed seam allowances lined up.
  4. Position the zipper with the right side down over the lined up fabric seam allowances. Mark the top and bottom (not the metal stopper but 5 cm up) of the zipper opening on both the seam allowances and on the zipper tape.
  5. Open the zipper. Unfold the seam allowances and position one row of zipper teeth along one folded out seam allowance, matching marks on the zipper tape and seam allowance. The teeth should lie exactly over the foldline, not inside. Pin in place using lots of pins. Don't pull the tops of the zipper into place, let them splay outwards.
  6. Sew the invisible zipper into place from the top down, through the seam allowance only, using a slightly looser top tension in your seewing machine and guiding the teeth feed through the foot channel. Sew as far as the lower mark on the bottom of the opening (not to the bottom of the zipper).
  7. Sew the other side of the zipper in the same way.
  8. Close the zipper.
  9. Place the garment pieces with right sides together, and the zipper sandwiched in between, and pin the seam below the zipper opening. Sew the seam from the bottom up using a normal zipper foot. About 2cm below the zipper opening, shorten the stitch length and overlap the stitching line of the invisible zipper for about 1cm.
  10. Hand bind the teeth at the bottom mark of the zipper, effectively creating your own stopper, and chop off the rest of the zipper. If you like, machine stitch the lower 2cm of the zipper to the seam allowances.
  11. Lightly press the closed zipper from either side, on the wrong side. On the right side, steam and finger press the zipper seam in place.

Voila!

Sunday, 2 June 2013

Vogue 8691


I made this tunic top for Claudie to combat the cool weather in Canberra. It's the shorter version, with front zip, and she loved it. Hard to go wrong when you're a size 8!

This was the third time I'd made the pattern so I obviously like it. The first time I made it was the longer version, sans zip, and you can read the pattern review here.