Wednesday, 20 May 2015

Turning Fabric Tubes

These are the instructions from Sham's (Communing with Fabric) video post on how to turn a fabric tube using a bobby pin. I'm posting it here in the hope that next time I need to do this I'll know where to look!


  1. Sew the fabric tube, right sides together. Make it at least an inch longer than it needs to be.
  2. Fold over the top ½" and cut diagonally across one corner forming a notch
  3. Insert the shorter leg of the bobby pin in the top of the tube then the longer leg in through the notch and start turning.
  4. Once it's fully turned, chop off the dodgy end with the notch

Sunday, 10 May 2015

Make a Slouchy Pocket

First of all, this pocket was inspired by the fabulous work of Gayle Ortiz and was drafted through much trial and error. It is designed to be attached to the outside of a top, vest, jacket, etc. and the finished pocket measures approximately 51/2" x 71/2". Note that the wrong side of the fabric forms the front gathered pocket.

Draw a paper template
  1. Draw a rectangle 6 x 16".
  2. At 9" down, draw a diagonal line ending 2" out from the lower corner of the rectangle, ending 1" above the lower line. Mirror the angle for the last 1" and do the same on the other side.
  3. Draw horizontal lines at 1½" and 3" from the top.

Construct the pocket
  1. Cut the fabric out and make snips at all the horizontal lines which are either fold lines or placement lines.
  2. Overlock each short edge, without trimming
  3. Interface the rectangle, not quite to the edges.
  4. With RS together, turn the top of the rectangle down 1½" and sew this short seam in ¼" seam. Turn and press.
  5. With RS together, turn edge of wedge down 1" and pin sides. Don't sew and turn.
  6. With WS together, pin one edge of wedge to one side of rectangle, lining the folded edge of the wedge along the overlocked edge of rectangle. Pin other side (there will be a lot of bagginess).
  7. Sew each side with a ¼" seam.
  8. Sew 2 lines of basting at ½" from the folded edge of the wedge.
  9. Gather the folded edge, secure ends and distribute fullness evenly.
  10. Sew 3 buttons onto the top flap.
  11. Edgestitch the pocket to the top, vest, jacket, and voila!

Monday, 23 February 2015

Make a 1950's Bow

Make a pattern

  1. Cut 2 pieces of fabric on the straight grain, making the main piece twice the length and twice the width of the finished bow, plus ¼" SA all around on both pieces. The bow will be about half the length of the main piece.
  2. Interface if the fabric is very drapey.

Sew the main piece

  1. With RS together, sew a ¼" seam on the long edge. Press the seam open over dowel and turn. Position the seam line in the middle and press.
  2. Make horizontal pleats on the CF and sew them down using a wide zig zag, about as wide as the centrepiece
  3. Pleat the raw ends of the main piece and tack in place.
  4. Fold the ends under so that they meet at CB. Sew through all layers using a wide zig zag (won't show -  will be covered by the centrepiece).

Sew the centrepiece

  1. With RS together, sew a ¼" seam on the long edge. Press the seam open over a wooden chopstick and turn. Position the seam line in the middle and press.
  2. Finish the raw edges and press.
  3. Topstitch, if desired.

Assemble the bow

  1. Wrap the centrepiece around the main piece, overlapping raw edges at CB and hand stitch in place.
  2. Using teeny weeny stitches, stitch the folded edges of the centrepiece to the main piece - this puffs it up.
  3. 1950s Bow

Saturday, 13 December 2014

Inserting an Invisible Zipper

This is the most accurate way to insert an invisible zipper - the result is always perfect.

First of all, don't sew any part of the seam where the zipper will go - leave the whole seam unsewn.

Also, choose a zipper that is about 5cm longer than the zipper opening. This allows the zipper end to be pulled out of the way when completing the garment seam.


  1. Interface both sides of the seam with long strips of iron-on interfacing.
  2. Lightly press under 1.5cm seam allowances in the zipper area. This fold line provides a guide for the zipper placement.
  3. Lay the garment fabric pieces wrong side up with the pressed seam allowances lined up.
  4. Position the zipper with the right side down over the lined up fabric seam allowances. Mark the top and bottom (not the metal stopper but 5 cm up) of the zipper opening on both the seam allowances and on the zipper tape.
  5. Open the zipper. Unfold the seam allowances and position one row of zipper teeth along one folded out seam allowance, matching marks on the zipper tape and seam allowance. The teeth should lie exactly over the foldline, not inside. Pin in place using lots of pins. Don't pull the tops of the zipper into place, let them splay outwards.
  6. Sew the invisible zipper into place from the top down, through the seam allowance only, using a slightly looser top tension in your seewing machine and guiding the teeth feed through the foot channel. Sew as far as the lower mark on the bottom of the opening (not to the bottom of the zipper).
  7. Sew the other side of the zipper in the same way.
  8. Close the zipper.
  9. Place the garment pieces with right sides together, and the zipper sandwiched in between, and pin the seam below the zipper opening. Sew the seam from the bottom up using a normal zipper foot. About 2cm below the zipper opening, shorten the stitch length and overlap the stitching line of the invisible zipper for about 1cm.
  10. Hand bind the teeth at the bottom mark of the zipper, effectively creating your own stopper, and chop off the rest of the zipper. If you like, machine stitch the lower 2cm of the zipper to the seam allowances.
  11. Lightly press the closed zipper from either side, on the wrong side. On the right side, steam and finger press the zipper seam in place.


Sunday, 2 June 2013

Vogue 8691

I made this tunic top for Claudie to combat the cool weather in Canberra. It's the shorter version, with front zip, and she loved it. Hard to go wrong when you're a size 8!

This was the third time I'd made the pattern so I obviously like it. The first time I made it was the longer version, sans zip, and you can read the pattern review here.

Saturday, 18 August 2012

Crafty cushions

I made these couple of cushions after seeing the idea in an online store called Hard to Find which stocks a wide and varied collection of fashion, jewellery, prints, homewares, etc etc.

I made the cushions using sturdy upholstery fabric from Spotlight, not overly gorgeous but a good background colour and texture. I didn't add a zip closure, I cut the back of the cushion as two separate pieces, created a double fold-over flap on both edges and added buttons. I cut the front as 22 x 22", the back upper as 22 x 8 and the back lower as 22 x 17. I used upholstery thread in the needle and in the bobbin because the fabric was backed with some sort of lining, and therefore a leather needle - large eye, slicing edge to the needle.

To make the animal shapes I first of all got Paul to draw the animals freehand then enlarged them on the photocopier, and used this as a template to cut out a patchwork I had made from cotton leftovers -I quite like being able to identify skirts and tops I've made in the cushions on my lounge! I used Tearaway to bond the applique to the cushion cover and then edge-stitched around it using a decorative stitch, I think the buttonhole stitch. I thought this would be more difficult than it proved to be, really just a matter of predicting where the needle would go next and moving the fabric around it. I made the cushion 4" bigger than the size 18 cushion inserts as I wanted to a) sew a 1" flange all around the edge and b) make the cover looser around the insert - I prefer this to the overstuffed look. I was so happy my lines lined up, I even did it on purpose!

I made a couple of these cushions in taupe for Ross and Fi's house down in Berry, they turned out really nicely, maybe even nicer than these ones, and they suit the farm vibe down there. I can't see me making any more of these, I don't want the whole farmyard them to continue, but if Claude and her friends come for a sewing day, which they've threatened to do once their HSC trials are over, this might just be the project for them.